Surfing is a spiritual activity. You hear surfers talk about it, but when you really think about it there are few other activities which provide such a direct communion with nature. You sit, staring at the flat horizon, waiting for waves of energy to roll in that have originated thousands of miles out at sea. When they do, you paddle as hard as you can to ride them to their final destination. It’s a beautiful moment.
Very nicely composed Justin. I think it adds to the feeling of spirituality.
Thanks Len!
I really love the minimalism of this shot. Excellent.